A Goldeneye View: Spring in the Cariboo
By Vanessa Moberg
You suddenly stop paddling and allow your kayak to glide along silently. The lake’s surface is glassy and calm, and your eyes are trained on the shoreline. You’re absolutely sure you heard something move. You wait. And then they emerge: first, a female goldeneye, trailed closely by seven of the cutest black and white puffballs you’ve ever seen, their little webbed feet paddling as fast as they can to keep up with momma duck.
Goldeneye with ducklings at Chimney Lake, Photo: Robert E Moberg
Following the goldeneyes’ lead, the Cariboo opens up to a world of promise in the spring. Green buds become leaves, rivers swell with the mountain melt, mule deer have fawns in tow – still wearing their spots – and we all emerge together, feeling renewed.
With Provincial Parks and Recreation Sites opening for the season, spring is a perfect time for an iconic Cariboo road trip. If the beaten path is not your thing, that’s perfect. In stark contrast to city congestion, you’ll find Cariboo roads are wide open, spanning vast landscapes – 80,252 square kilometres to be exact.
Aerial view of Green Lake, Photo: Solos Productions
To reserve your spot at a BC Park, visit their booking site. As for recreation sites, most operate on a first come, first served basis, but a few do accept reservations. Rec sites that charge a fee accept cash only.
Not a camper? How about a rancher? Staying at a Cariboo guest ranch offers an authentic cultural experience. Driving cattle is a way of life here, so riding horses into the sunset is far from a gimmick.
The Cariboo also offers more conventional accommodations, such as hotels, motels, cabins, and guest houses. The District of 100 Mile House is an excellent base for your South Cariboo adventures. And while it’s got everything you need, from lodging, eateries, a brew pub, and nostalgic downtown shops, it’s also surprisingly peaceful. Centennial Park, located right in town, has walking trails, a picnic area, and even cascading waterfalls.
Centennial Park in 100 Mile House, Photo: Solos Productions
The serenity continues in the North Cariboo with a visit to the District of Wells. At 1,200 metres, you’ll find pristine mountain air as you explore the alpine trails around this charming and colourful little town.
Wells is also the gateway to the world-renowned Bowron Lakes Circuit, a 116-kilometre chain of waterways and connecting lands over which you portage your boat, the ultimate Canadian adventure. Reserve your spot on the BC Parks booking site.
Misty forest around Wells, Photo: Elladee Brown
And just five kilometres away from Wells, you’ll find Barkerville Historic Town and Park. Once a booming gold rush town, Barkerville is now the largest living-history museum in western North America, with more than 125 heritage buildings along with interpreters in period costume, restaurants, and shops.
You see, your Cariboo road trip will follow the footsteps of mid-nineteenth century prospectors who once flocked here looking to strike it rich. On the famed Gold Rush Trail, legends were made and dreams were dashed. Now it’s your turn to relive the Cariboo gold rush, making their story a part of yours.
Once you’ve finished exploring Barkerville, head to the City of Quesnel where you will find a fully operational blacksmith shop, sawmill, and other vintage equipment at the Quesnel & District Antique Machinery Park. Operated by volunteers, this park is a perfect compliment to your Barkerville experience. Quesnel is also a major Cariboo centre, with all the amenities you need for your trip ahead.
Blacksmithing at the Quesnel & District Antique Machinery Park, Photo: Arkitek Creative
Connecting the North and South Cariboo is Highway 97, and in the centre you’ll find the friendly City of Williams Lake. Often referred to as a “four directions” hub, not only does Williams Lake connect the north and the south, it is also an excellent staging point for adventures to the east, with the cedar rainforests and grizzly bears of Quesnel Lake, and to the west, with the grasslands and bighorn sheep of Farwell Canyon.
There’s no such thing as a wrong turn here, only unexpected destinations.
View of the San Jose River leading to Williams Lake, Photo: Solos Productions
The importance of place in Williams Lake goes back a very long time. The T’exelcemc (the People of the Williams Lake First Nation) have been living in harmony with these sacred lands for over 6,500 years.
T’exelc (Williams Lake First Nation) – along with Xatśūll First Nation (Soda Creek), Stswēceḿc Xget’tem First Nation (Canoe Creek), and the Canim Lake Band (Tsq’escenemc) – comprise the Northern Secwépemc te Qelmúcw, or Shuswap People of the North. Esk’etemc (Alkali Lake) is also part of the Secwépemc Nation.
West of Secwépemcúl’ecw in the Tŝilhqot’in region, the Tŝilhqot’in National Government is comprised of the ʔEsdilagh First Nation (Alexandria), Tl’etinqox Government (Anaham), Tŝideldel First Nation (Alexis Creek/Redstone), Xeni Gwet’in First Nations Government (Nemiah Valley), Yuneŝit’in Government (Stone), and Tl’esqox (Toosey) although Tl’esqox is also a member of the Carrier Chilcotin Tribal Council.
North of Secwépemcúl’ecw and Tŝilhqot’in are the Dakelh/Carrier communities. The Southern Dakelh Nation comprises two unique Dakelh communities: Lhtako Dené Nation (Red Bluff) and Lhoosk’uz Dené Nation (Kluskus). In the northwest, is Ndazkoh (Nazko First Nation). And in the west Tŝilhqot’in area is the Ulkatcho First Nation, who share territory with the Nuxalk People of the Coast.
Since time immemorial, these nations have occupied their traditional and unceded territories. We travel here with reverence, respecting each community’s laws and protocols.
These big lands hold important intersections of history, people, and place. Knowledge and traditions preserved by Indigenous Elders remain as living narrative artifacts from ancient times. There is much to learn here, and authentic Indigenous experiences illuminate the Cariboo’s diverse culture. For instance, Xatśūll Heritage Village offers several immersive experiences, such as crafting workshops for beading and medicine pouches.
Workshop at Xatśūll Heritage Village, Photo: Arkitek Creative
Back at the lake, the goldeneyes paddle away, as do you, beaming after your brush with cuteness. As your kayak parts the waters ahead, you wonder what’s next.
So while your GPS will help on your Cariboo road trip, we suggest you let the story be your guide.
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